Strange memories on this nervous night outside of Lone Pine. Five years later? Six? It seems like a lifetime, or at least a Main Era—the kind of peak that never comes again. Neither a west coast or east coast pale, this goddamn animal is a landlocked beast, too weird to live and too rare to die. Tropical fruit and pine resin walk hand in hand through the haze of California towards Nevada and Arizona. Next stop, Flagstaff.